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New York’s Most Exciting New Restaurant is Just a Warm-Up Act

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11 hours ago

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New York’s Most Exciting New Restaurant is Just a Warm-Up Act

Atmosphere
Like an intimate French bistro pleasantly scented with fish sauce and shallots.

Noise Level
Moderate.

Recommended Dishes
The menu changes weekly and sometimes daily. Recent highlights include snails with garlic and tamarind butter; carrot salad; black pudding tartlet with kumquats; pâté chaud; mussels escabeche on toast; egg mayo with anchovy and chile crisp; crème caramel with coffee granita; lemon meringue pie; bruléed coconut bread pudding; citrus dreamsicle. Small plates, $5 to roughly $28; larger plates, about $36 to $42.

Drinks and Wine
The wine list, mostly bottles from small producers throughout Europe, is tight, delightful and surprising. The vermouth and beer selections feel intended for people who don’t usually order vermouth and beer in a restaurant.

Price
$$$ (expensive)

Open
Wednesday through Saturday for dinner.

Reservations
Accepted.

Wheelchair Access
There’s a ramp outside the entrance, and a large table in the dining room that can accommodate a wheelchair. The bathroom is not accessible, but the restaurant has an agreement with the bar next door, Early Terrible, that allows patrons to use its ac

What the Stars Mean
Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor, fair or satisfactory. One star, good. Two stars, very good. Three stars, excellent. Four stars, extraordinary.

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