Wicked Costume Designer Defends Elphaba’s Controversial ‘Sex Cardigan’

One very important voice has weighed in on the debate over Elphaba’s “sex cardigan” in Wicked: For Good — the film’s lead costume designer, Paul Tazewell.

Tazewell, 61, explained the decision for Cynthia Erivo’s character to sport the chunky knit sweater for a romantic scene with Jonathan Bailey’s Fiyero in the sequel.

“It came out of very literally an organic decision of, what does Elphaba have access to? And living alone, what choice would she make when she’s looking for a robe, some way to be protective and warm? … It’s operating as her robe for that moment,” Tazewell told NPR on Monday, December 1. “She’s got a loom in her treehouse, where she’s weaving her own clothing. She’s manifesting all these things from the elements that are around her, and the sweater is just in keeping with that.”

“Now indeed, you could say, Well, why wasn’t it a black, slinky peignoir? But where would she get … that? Well why would she even have it? … I think that it just follows through with reasonable choices that define who a character is and what is important for them, where their priorities are,” he continued.

In the scene, Elphaba belts out “As Long as Your Mine” in a cave with Fiyero after his wedding to Glinda (Ariana Grande) was interrupted by a hoard of animals that were set free. The chemistry between Elphaba and Fiyero is palpable, as she ditches her usual cape and changes into the cardigan and black lingerie, which earned the “sex cardigan” label from fans on social media. The article of clothing has generated a ton of buzz, memes and conflicting opinions among fans, some of whom were jealous of how cozy it looked.

“Does anyone know where to get Elphaba’s sex cardigan? It looks so comfy – I want one!!!” one person asked on X following the film’s November 21 release.

“All I want for Christmas is the Elphaba Sex Cardigan 👕,” a second X user said.

This isn’t the first time Tazewell addressed the chatter about the cardigan and how Elphaba’s environment influenced her wardrobe choices.

“So all that, it was a multi yarn. I think that there were probably three yarns that went into that knit, and then the pattern, if you are able to look at it closely or the next time that you see it, it weaves together,” he said of the sweater’s fabric while chatting with Harper’s Bazaar on November 18. “It’s almost like an expanded or oversize cable knit that creates the idea of both bark and vines that are twisting together. So it is continuing to align her with all that is natural, all that’s organic, and be reflective of the space that she’s in.”

Still, the explanation wasn’t enough to silence the cardigan-haters.

One X user wrote, “Everyone clowning on the sex cardigan but tbh wearing some ugly ratty sweater bc she doesn’t wanna be fully naked just yet is the most elphaba thing to do.”

“I’m sorry but it really is funny how elphaba puts that damn cardigan over her hot fit,” said another, while a third person called the look “ridiculous.”

Wicked: For Good is in theaters now.