Restaurant Review: Gymkhana in Las Vegas

Gymkhana really leans into the Indian restaurants’ capacity for luxury. Gymkhana is an Indian import from London that opened last year inside Aria, a Las Vegas resort and casino. One of the first things that might happen when you sit down is that your servers will warn you about the spice. I was a little surprised by the heat levels on some of the dishes, even though I was also really into them. Srikant Kumar is the chef and the kitchen specializes in rich, party-ready tikkas and kebabs, opulent venison biryani that steams under the pastry. You’ll see it on almost every table. And it’s not just because opening the pastry is such an exciting and Instagrammable moment. The lamb chops are really excellent — tender, marinated in yogurt and then cooked in a charcoal tandoor until there’s just the slightest char. One of my favorite dishes, though, was less showy: a snacky little beetroot-chopped pao, a beet and carrot patty sandwiched in a soft, buttery bread, alive with a prismatic tang, and the heat of whole fried chilies layered with so much texture. The kitchen has a few minor inconsistencies to work out. Mostly, I wish service at Gymkhana was warmer, especially at the icy, clubby host stand. This is a Vegas restaurant replicating a London blockbuster that was inspired by India’s Gymkhanas. These colonial-era social clubs modeled on British ideas, which later opened up to India’s high society. It might all sound a bit disconnected from Las Vegas, but in its celebration of exclusivity and excess, it actually feels right at home on the Strip. You can read the full review on The New York Times.