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How to Cook Tofu Better

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How to Cook Tofu Better

Tofu is often called a blank canvas, an empty surface on which to paint your sauces, marinades and whims. But, while its flavor is mild, tofu is anything but blank. It brings plenty to the plate: a subtle nuttiness, a sweet milkiness and, with some cajoling, crispness. Here are seven ways that the artist-cook in each of us can bring out its full potential.

Credit…David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

While sprinkling tofu with salt coaxes out its flavor, soy sauce can do more. Drizzle patted-dry tofu with soy sauce for seasoning, savoriness and texture: Whether you cook tofu on the stovetop or on a sheet pan in the oven, the soy sauce’s sugars will caramelize into an alluringly crisp, golden crust.



An overhead image of maple-roasted tofu on a pan surrounded by brussels sprouts and cubed sweet potato.

Credit…Linda Xiao for The New York Times Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Baking tofu is a meandering journey to possibly floppy or possibly tough tofu. The broiler is a more direct sprint, requiring just 15 minutes to char the exterior but maintain a custardy middle. Even a short stint is beneficial: crisping tofu’s edges and concentrating any marinade.



An overhead image of a salad topped with a light sauce, sesame seeds and cubes of tofu.

Credit…Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

That carton of grocery store tofu doesn’t need to be cooked to be enjoyed. Cut or scooped right from the package, both firm and silken varieties can provide a delicate, cooling, almost milky pause in salads — much like a dollop of ricotta or a drizzle of creamy dressing. Contrast the cold, curdlike tofu with the assertive and crunchy: chunky peanut butter, a spicy soy sauce dressing, sizzled garlic and ginger, and more.



An overhead image of a bowl of orange broth spotted with blocks of tofu and tiny tomatoes.

Credit…Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Maeve Sheridan.

While scoops of silken tofu in a bowl of soup can look like icebergs, they’re anything but. Silky, warm and wobbly, they break apart at the swipe of a spoon, adding a different kind of softness. You can heat the silken tofu in the pot for a few minutes, or scoop it directly into bowls and pour the soup over top. Either way, it will gently absorb the broth’s warmth and flavor.



A side image of a sandwich piled high with a block of fried tofu, lettuce and pickles.

Credit…David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

A slippery slab of tofu might not look like it can be fried, but neither does a chicken breast — and both can, happily. Dunk extra-firm tofu in a combination of wet and dry coatings, then fry it in hot oil. It’ll emerge craggy and golden, just like fried chicken or steak. You could serve it alongside a green vegetable, as David Tanis does with his tofu Milanese, but it shines in a sandwich: Stack the fried tofu onto buns with mayo, pickles and shredded cabbage or lettuce. Take a big bite and let the shattery tofu give way to its soft center.



An overhead image of crumbled tofu, chickpeas, tomatoes and mint on a plate.

Credit…Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini

Free tofu from right angles and crumble it into small pieces so all its craggy edges soak up seasonings. Tofu is made of curds of soy milk, making it easy to break apart into pieces that resemble ground meat using just your fingers or a wooden spoon. As they sizzle in oil, their water will wick away; they’ll get thirsty — ready to drink up whatever assertive ingredients you toss them with, including ground spices, dried chiles, soy sauce and tomato paste for a savory sizzling taco filling.



An overhead image of roasted broccoli on a bed of cashew cream.

Credit…Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

For its last magic trick, tofu will whir into an ethereally light, fluffy dip. This sorcery works with all firmnesses, from silken (for a silkier sauce resembling heavy cream) to extra-firm (for something closer to ricotta). Just like any dip, you can give a tofu-based one a spicy, herby, savory or other personality by blending in other ingredients. Eat it with crackers, bread, or crudités — or spoon it onto a platter and pile roasted vegetables or a salad on top.



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