Andy Baraghani’s Nowruz Recipes – The New York Times

I’ve always wanted to go to Iran, the country my parents fled in the late 1970s just before the revolution. But for so many reasons — political tensions, family fears, shifting circumstances — that trip never happened.

As someone who creates recipes professionally, cooking has become my way of closing the distance. And during Nowruz, the Persian New Year, which begins on Thursday, the spring equinox, and runs for 13 days, food takes on greater significance. Each dish, each ingredient symbolizes something greater: herbs for rebirth, fish for prosperity, sweet, sticky confections to usher in a year of joy.

The celebrations begin even before Nowruz itself, with Chaharshanbeh Suri, the festival of fire. Growing up, small bonfires would be assembled in my uncle’s backyard, and everyone — kids and adults alike — would leap over the flames, burning away past hardships and absorbing warmth for the year ahead. Music would blast, conversations would switch between English and Farsi, and the air would thicken with smoke, laughter and the smell of sizzled mint for ash reshteh, a thick, herby soup with beans and long noodles, meant to bring luck and guidance.

Once the holiday officially began, it was time for the haftseen, the ceremonial spread. As a kid, I barely thought about its meaning. But while I watched cooking shows and ate as much as I could, my mother would carefully arrange our family’s seven symbolic items: sabzeh (wheatgrass) for renewal, seeb (apples) for beauty, serkeh (vinegar) for patience, seer (garlic) for health, senjed (wild olive) for love, samanu (wheat germ pudding) for affluence and sonbol (hyacinth) for spring. I remember how the hyacinth’s scent would fill the house, and how, at the exact moment of the equinox, cheers, tears and plenty of kisses would welcome the new year.