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All Breakfast, All the Time



I’m a big breakfast person, but I don’t tend to eat it in the morning. To me, the magic of runny eggs with buttered toast or a piping hot bowl of creamy steel-cut oats is best enjoyed languorously at the end of the day, not in that semi-caffeinated fog typical of a weekday morning. I adore breakfast as long as it’s for dinner.

No matter the hour, when you make eggs Kejriwal — Tejal Rao’s updated version of a Mumbai social club staple — you’ll be enchanted by its mustardy, green chile-spiked depth. Imagine a cheese toastie, flecked with cilantro and onion and topped with a molten-centered fried egg, and you’ll get the picture.

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For more such gems, associate editor and breakfast enthusiast Krysten Chambrot has put together this stunning roundup of our best breakfast recipes. Anyone not instantly hypnotized by the opening GIF of syrupy blueberries and melting butter dripping down a stack of lemon ricotta pancakes has a stronger will (or a weaker sweet tooth) than me. Anyway, now I know what I’m having for breakfast tonight.

But getting back to the savory side. When I was growing up my parents sometimes fried leftover pasta for breakfast, all of us vying for the crispiest bits. You could do the same with Anna Jones’s easy one-pot spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and kale (as adapted by Tejal) — that is, if you and yours don’t devour all of this lemony, peppery marvel as soon as it hits the table.

Salmon is a popular component of breakfast worldwide, accompanied by miso soup and rice, say, or draped over a cream-cheesed bagel. I was thinking dinner when I created my recipe for broiled salmon with mustard and lemon, but this tangy, silky 15-minute dish is also giving off a big brunch vibe. Serve it with some sautéed broccoli for a light and colorful brunch, dinner or breakfast.

More fish, this time canned: Sohla El-Waylly’s crispy tuna cakes may be shaped like plump pancakes, but they’re deeply savory, with a crackling exterior thanks to the canned cannellini beans in the mix. Sohla serves them with a buttermilk ranch-dressed wedge salad that’s studded with briny olives.

Of course there are times when I want dinner at dinnertime, and this brothy stewed chicken and dumplings recipe from Ebony magazine’s test kitchen is a gorgeous option. Filled with soft chunks of chicken and fluffy white dumplings, it’s a comforting, warming meal. Simmering it up will suffuse your kitchen with kindly aromas.

Back to the sweet stuff! A buttered slice or two of Bryan Washington’s gently spiced miso pecan banana bread is as tempting for breakfast as it is for dessert — or, let’s face it, maybe both.

Zealous breakfast people and devout dinner eaters alike will want to subscribe to get all these recipes, along with the thousands more we have at New York Times Cooking. If you need any technical help along the way, the brilliant people at [email protected] are there for you. And I’m at [email protected] if you want to say hi.

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